Hey gents. As you know if you’ve been around awhile, my channel is all about education.

I’ve learned a great deal from my own mistakes and I share this hard-earned knowledge with you in the hope that you won’t make the same mistakes. Today’s article is a case in point: we’re going to talk about what I wish I had known when I first started taking dress shoes seriously. More specifically, how do you shop for high-quality dress shoes without breaking the bank?

Admittedly a difficult question, but I’ve got an answer I’m satisfied with.

The default for many men is to look for shoes from brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden. Those shoes usually cost $300-$400 and if you’re getting your very first pair of dress shoes, you may not yet be ready to make that kind of investment.

Understandable! 

But what I’m really here for on this channel is to show you how to get to that next step: to invest a bit more in fewer, high-quality, non-trendy pieces that will last and thus save you money in the long run. 

A Bit Of Background…
I distinctly remember the first pair of dress shoes that I bought on Zappos and I can even remember tweeting a picture to my friends, asking if I looked good in them. These shoes have definitely gotten their share of wear over time. 

They were from Ted Baker and, if I remember correctly, they cost around $110. They weren’t necessarily a mistake, (that was what I could afford at the time!) but what I realize now is that I could have spent $50 more and gotten a much better shoe.

How, you ask? Read on.

Marks Of A Good Shoe
What you want to look for first when shoe shopping is the shape of the toe. If it’s square, don’t buy it! They won’t do anything for you and they won’t last. It’s what a lot of guys buy because they’re often $50 or cheaper. However, they’re cheap shoes and they won’t do you any good. They’re not particularly attractive either? Don’t believe me? Have a look. 

The second thing you want to look for is the construction of the shoe. Cheaper shoes tend to be glued together so once the soles wear out, you have to throw the whole shoe away and start over. And at the $100 price point, they’re basically meant to be disposable. What’s the clearest sign of good construction? You’ll want to look for either a Blake Stitch or Goodyear Welt. Not familiar with those terms? Last year I talked about both options in detail with some friends of mine. A Goodyear Welt is more expensive than a Blake Stitch, but the latter is usually more lightweight. You’ll find a Stitch quite often on a lot of European shoes.

Finally, you’ll want to make sure that the shoe’s made of decent material. Its upper should be a full-grain leather or calfskin. Avoid shoes labeled “genuine leather”. It’s the lowest quality that can legally be called leather.  You’ll also want to pay attention to the materials used in the shoe’s interior. Cheaper shoes often hahve insoles and lining made of fabric. Not only to these wear down quickly, they make your feet stink cos cotton retains moisture and odor. A nicer-made shoe will have a leather lining, which helps to keep the moisture away from your foot and also kills odor.

On a slightly related note…


The Most Important Shoe Care Hack
The best method for preventing foot odor will also make your shoes last longer. I’m talking about shoe trees. The best made of cedar and they do double duty by maintaining the shape of your shoes and absorbing moisture. As a result, your shoes last longer and they don’t get smelly. Seriously, gents. Invest in good shoe trees for every pair of dress shoes you own. You’ll be glad you did. 

Buy Expensive, Cry Once. Buy Cheap, Cry Forever.
Intelligent people have been living (and shopping!) according to these words of wisdom for centuries but their relevance to modern men’s footwear is obvious. Instead of buying $60 shoes and replacing them less than a year later because they wore out quickly, save a bit and buy a nicer shoe at a higher price point. Why? Because it also holds a higher value.

The first thing people will look at when they meet you is often your shoes. Surely you want to send the right message with your choice of footwear? It says a lot about you and it’s worth investing in some brands that will both give you a better image and last longer. 

If you can’t go straight to the $395 Allen Edmonds (which really are a lifelong shoe!), I recommend three other brands: Beckett Simonon, Meermin and Thursday Boots. All three are great options for entry-level dress shoes and they usually run $150-200. 

Beckett Simonon provides incredible value and timeless designs. While I’ve had some trouble with Meermin, I can’t deny that they make incredible Goodyear welted shoes with really nice leathers and designs. And Thursday Boots have recently added several dress shoe styles to their collection that are worth looking at. 

I don’t hide that I’m partial to certain brands. I even did a documentary on Allen Edmonds, in which I spent a ton of time diving into the company’s history and shoe production process. Just the same, here are a few others that you might like to look at:

Conclusion
The differences between a $60 shoe and a $200 shoe are the design, the construction methods, and the raw materials. Remember to look for a well-built shoe that is timeless and elegant. I can’t stop you from wasting money on Ben Shermans like I did, but it’s a $60 mistake that I don’t want other guys to make because it’s cutting a corner that is ultimately not worth it.

As always, I love to hear from you guys. What mistakes did you make when you first started buying dress shoes? What are your favorite brands and why? Follow me on Twitter and Instagram or comment below and talk to me!

Until next time, gents. This is The Kavalier...